Tail Left: (Often indicates a weak spined arrow)
1. Decrease draw weight. Back out both limb bolts a quarter turn at a time. Make certain to adjust both limbs equally to avoid changing the tiller and nock point position on the string. Also make certain to avoid backing the limb bolts out too far to avoid injury to the archer and damage to the bow.
2. Decrease point weight. A lighter point will have some effect on increasing shaft stiffness. Too light of a point however, may result in unstable arrow flight.
3. If steps 1 and 2 don't reduce the length of the tear to your satisfaction, you may need to change to a stiffer shaft.
Tail Right: (Often indicates an arrow that is too stiff)
1. Increase draw weight. Tighten both limb bolts a quarter turn at a time. Make certain to adjust both limbs equally to avoid changing the tiller and nock point position on the string.
2. Increase point weight. A heavier point will have some effect on decreasing shaft stiffness. Arrow speed may be reduced.
3. If steps 1 and 2 don't reduce the length of the tear to your satisfaction, you may need to change to a weaker shaft.
To correct a Tail high:
1. Move the nocking point down in small increments.
2. If using a launcher or shoot-thru type arrowrest, move the arrow support arm up. Increasing spring tension can also be helpful.
3. Check for fletching interference and adjust rest position as needed.
To correct a Tail low:
1. Move the nocking point up in small increments.
2. If using a launcher or shoot-thru type arrowrest, move the arrow support arm down. Reduced spring tension can also be helpful for even finer adjustments.
**Note: When paper tuning a left handed bow right and left tears are reversed.**
Pre-Season Bow Tuning
Follow these simple steps and you will bring home the venison. I'll start with explaining how arrow flight works.
Basics of Tuning
When you throw a dart, it really doesn't matter which way it's pointing when it leaves your hand. With its aerodynamic tip and tail fins, it quickly stabilizes to fly straight. A paper airplane, on the other hand, is a lot tougher to
throw in a straight line. As soon as it leaves your hand it will start turning, dipping or rising.
To make a paper airplane fly straight you have to bend and straighten a bunch of things, the tip, the wings, the tail sections until, by trial and error, you've got it tracking straight. You may even need to perfect your throwing motion to assure that your release the airplane on a straight path.
Without this tuning process, you'd be expecting a lot to hope that a paper airplane would fly as accurately as a dart. Yet that's exactly what many bowhunters do when they expect a broadhead tipped hunting arrow to hit in the same place as their field point arrows without spending the time and effort to tune their bows, their arrows and their shooting form.
The same adjustments required to make the paper airplane fly like a dart are also required to make a hunting arrow fly as true as a practice arrow. If you think about tuning in these terms, this complex task seems a lot more straightforward.
Tuning the Bow
Initial settings: Your two-cam bow can only be tuned if the cams roll over at the same time. By checking this now, you'll save yourself headaches later. With the bow lying across your lap, compare the rotation of each cam to its respective limb. If they aren't both positioned the same, you have a mistimed bow. You can also check cam timing at full draw, but you'll need the help of a friend to determine if the cams are reaching their full draw positions at the same time. Resetting your timing is not overly difficult, but it does require a little training. Unless you're already a handy bow technician, leave this work to your local archery pro.
Single-cam bows and today's hybrid-cam bows have a much smaller chance of going out of tune than traditional two-cam bows. However, it is always wise to check your cams for signs of wear both on the server of your string and cables, the axles that run through the cams, and the limbs as well.
Proper left-to-right position of your arrow rest can also speed-up the tuning process. When setting up for a release aid, your nocked arrow should line up perfectly with the forward thrust of the string. The easiest way to check this alignment is to stand the bow on its bottom wheel and look down on it from above. The arrow should come straight out the front of the bow, not pointing to either side. This eye-ball method will get you very close, however for precise adjustments there are several tools on the market that will help you.
Release aid shooters should install a nock point so its lower edge is approximately 1/8 inch above the center of the bow's cushion plunger hole (where the rest attaches). Finger shooters should start 3/8 to 1/2 inch above center and should move the rest away from the bow very slightly so the arrow points barely to the left for right-handed shooters.
Paper tuning: Ideally, your arrows will leave the bow flying straight, with the nock perfectly following the point, making a bullet hole through paper with three equal length cuts caused by the fletchings. To get a snapshot of how your arrows are flying, shoot them (tipped with field points) through a piece of paper from a range of about five feet. I just cut a hole in a cardboard box and tape the paper across the opening. The tears the arrows make, along with the troubleshooting chart I've included, will tell you what to do next.
Collisions between the arrow's fletchings and the rest are the most common cause of poor arrow flight. There are two ways to isolate this problem. The easiest method is to spray your fletching with aerosol foot powder. The powder will rub off in areas where contact occurs.
You can also use trial and error by turning your nocks slightly to adjust the way the fletching passes through the rest. This process often results in perfect flight in short order.
Not all arrow rests offer ample fletching clearance. If tweaking the nock won't eliminate fletching contact, experiment with a drop-away arrow rest. I use these regularly and they certainly make tuning easier, especially with the small diameter carbon arrows and aggressive helical offset fletching that I favour.
Finger shooters will find that good arrow flight is also related to small changes in the stiffness of their arrows. Fortunately, there are a few things you can do to better match bow and shaft without having to buy a dozen new arrows. Specifically, if your arrows are flying tail-left, typifying a weak spine reaction for a right handed shooter, try one of the following solutions: use a lighter weight point, try composite inserts (both will make the shaft act stiffer) or reduce your draw weight a few pounds. If your paper tears suggest you need more flexible shafts (tail-right for a right-handed shooter) first try a heavier point or increase your draw weight slightly.
Tune Your Arrows
Tuning your bow is like improving the way you release the paper airplane to assure it starts out flying straight. To make it hit the bullseye, you next have to tune the arrow itself. That is like tweaking the airplane to assure that all parts are perfectly aligned
Tuning your bow will bring your hunting arrow groups onto the same part of the target as your practice arrows, but it will do nothing to reduce the size of the group itself. To do that you have to tune each arrow individually. All the components that make up a hunting arrow must line up perfectly or the effects of wind planing will cause it to fly erratically.
Set aside half a dozen new arrows to be used only for hunting to assure they are straight and sound.
Hopefully, after eliminating the imperfect arrows, you still have enough to hunt. If not, you'll need to replace or square up your inserts. To replace them, you must carefully heat the point (not the shaft) with a propane torch (assuming the inserts were installed with hot melt glue), gently turn the point and insert in an attempt to float it the center. You may have to do this more than once to see improvement.
If you are using carbon arrows with inserts that were installed using epoxy, you can't release the insert with heat. You will only destroy the arrow. Instead, in those situations I use a tool called the Arrow Squaring Device from G5 Outdoors. It permits me to square up the end of the insert so the broadhead shoulders squarely when I screw it in. This really improves alignment. I use it on every arrow I set up for hunting.
Sight-in With Broadheads
Even with considerable attention to detail there is no guarantee that your broadhead-tipped hunting arrows will hit the same exact holes as your practice arrows carrying field points.
In general, if your hunting arrows group in a different part of the target from your practice arrows, your bow is not perfectly tuned. Small differences are fairly common even with bow and arrow combos that are paper tuned, but they can be corrected easily by simply moving your rest very slightly in the direction required to bring your hunting arrows closer to your practice arrows. If this doesn't work you can always move your sight to compensate. If the arrows are wide left, move the sight to the left, etc.
There's nothing more satisfying to a bowhunter than putting it all together during the moment of truth. Since you know the whole season may come down to just one shot, now is the time to do the things that are necessary to make it count.
Strings, String Material and String Serving. All you need to know.
Taken from BCY Fibers (www.bcyfibers.com)
Question: What is creep compared to stretch?
Answer: Creep is non-recoverable elongation, unlike stretch which is basically elasticity or recoverable elongation. Some elasticity is necessary. Creep is a problem. It can cause the bow to go out of tune and the peep to rotate. The draw weight can increase and the draw length can increase.
Question: Are there any bowstring materials that do not creep?
Answer: Yes – 450 Plus and 452X are blends of Dyneema and Vectran. Vectran has no creep at the tension created by normal bows, therefore both 450 Plus and 452X are normally 100% stable.
Question: If the 450 products have no creep, why would anyone use anything else?
Answer: Any archer needing maximum speed will find that a Vectran blended product is slightly slower than a 100% Dyneema or Spectra product.
Question: What is the fastest string material that does not creep?
Answer: On most bows, we would suggest 20 – 26 strands of 452X material in the string and the cable (or make the cables from 12 – 14 strands of 450 Plus). This response relates to compound bows with 55 – 75 lb draw weight. A lower number of strands can be used on lighter poundage bows. Formula 8125 material and DynaFLIGHT 97 are made from the latest and strongest Dyneema material. In many cases, little or no creep will occur when using these materials and 8125 is the fastest.
Question: Is it a fact that the lower the number of strands, the faster the arrow?
Answer: Yes on most bows but not all, and of course with today’s extremely strong materials, a lower number of strands can normally be used safely. Of course it is important to be sure that the center serving is built up to allow a good nock fit when the number of string strands are reduced. Note also that at a certain point not too far below the manufacturers recommended number of strands, it is quite likely that the archer will notice an increase in vibration directly after release because there is not enough mass in the string to absorb the “elastic energy” that occurs when the arrow is released.
Note that on HMPE products like Dyneema and Spectra are prone to creep more if less strands are used. “Elevated temperatures and higher draw weights increase this problem.”
Question: Are there string materials that are better on some bows than others?
Answer: Bow manufacturers make their choice of string material based on many criteria but primarily safety and performance. Performance meaning speed, low or no creep, vibration, and durability. Bow manufacturers do extensive testing. Some put a higher priority on certain criteria than others but they are all very conscious of safety.
Question: Can you use a different string than the type supplied with the bow directly from the factory?
Answer: Normally yes unless there are some strict recommendations not to by the bow manufacturer. Check to be sure it does not void the warranty if a different string is used. Be sure to get the right number of strands of the new material you plan to use.
Question: Is it necessary to use “special” wax with certain types of bowstring material?
Answer: Not really. There are four main reasons for using wax on a bowstring.
1. To lubricate the fibers and prevent “fiber to fiber” abrasion
2. To help keep the “bundle” of strands together
3. To maintain and extend the life of the string
4. To help prevent water absorption
Bowstring material manufacturers normally apply a generous amount of synthetic wax in liquid form, which insures that from its origin the bowstring material is well lubricated inside and out. It is this process which gives the material its basic protection from fiber to fiber abrasion and helps keep the bundle of strands together. Generally the type of wax used would be a good quality standard “tacky” wax. At this stage it would be unusual for the wax to include silicone which is very slick and, particularly in the case of Flemish strings, makes it difficult to convert the bowstring material into a finished bowstring. However, after the string is made, it is recommended that the archer look for a “maintenance” wax that contains some silicone because a wax blended with silicone penetrates the string material very well and keeps the inside fibers lubricated as well as the outside.
Wax can be applied with fingers, with a cloth, or with a chamois leather. It should be applied frequently and rubbed well into the string.
Question: Is it okay to wax the serving material on a bowstring?
Answer: Yes, especially if a silicone wax is used because the silicone will penetrate through the serving into the fibers below which are tightly compressed so there will be help in improving durability.
Question: How many twists can be put into a bowstring?
Answer: There are three reasons for twisting a bowstring –
1. To keep the bundle of strands together
2. To shorten the string after creep has occurred (adjust draw length)
3. To correct peep rotation
On a standard compound bow, initially 10 – 20 twists is a suggested range. If you use a material that does not creep, no further twisting will be required. Obviously on single cam strings, more twists may be required. The recommended range is 20 – 40.
Question: Does twisting reduce creep?
Answer: Not really. Eventually polyethylene fibers such as Spectra and Dyneema, under high temperature and high tension, will creep. Twisting will take up the stretch (creep) that has occurred, but will not stop it continuing.
Question: Is there any difference in the durability of a string made from colored material instead of black or white?
Answer: No.
Question: Are there any benefits in a braided bowstring as opposed to the standard twisted product?
Answer: We produced braided bowstring material many years ago and have looked at it many times. Generally braided material is expensive. It does not improve the creep characteristics of the bowstring and normally reduces arrow speed.
Question: What is the life of a bowstring?
Answer: This depends on many factors but primarily the number of shots and the condition of the equipment. If an archer is shooting a high poundage bow every day and using perhaps a caliper release, the string should be checked very frequently. (Using a string loop will increase string life.) On a lower poundage bow, shooting fingers, the wear would be significantly less, therefore the life of the string much longer. But again, it is the archer’s responsibility to check the string and keep it waxed. There are no rules. We know that with the high quality synthetic materials being used today, many thousands of shots can be achieved. We also know that once a string has “stretched out” or rather “crept” an inch or two, it should be taken off and replaced. Archers should also check for tell tale signs of problems such as abrasion (fuzziness), high strands (which indicate a strand breakage underneath the serving), excessive peep rotation which again can be an indication that one strand may have broken.
There are many reasons for string breakage. One of the most common is burrs in the cams/ wheels. It is the archers responsibility to check the string carefully prior to shooting every time. As stated, many thousands of shots can safely be achieved if the string is checked and maintained properly.
Question: If I reduce the number of strands to improve arrow speed, should I be concerned that the strength of the bow string is reduced and therefore dangerous?
Answer: With almost all modern materials used in the manufacture of bowstrings, the strength is well in excess of the maximum tension applied to the string. Consider this – A popular number of strands for Formula 8125 material is 18. The breaking strength of a single strand of Formula 8125 exceeds 100 lbs. Using 100 lbs as the criteria, the total strength of 18 strands is 1800 lbs. Of course when set up on a bow, the strands are split at the loops and a static load test shows that approximately 40% of the strength is lost at this point. This still leaves a breaking strength of over 1000 lbs.
It has been calculated that on a high poundage bow, say 75 – 80 lbs, it is possible to generate approximately 200 lbs total tension while drawing. Compare this to the breaking strength over 1000 lbs mentioned above and there is at least a 5 – 1 safety factor.
Reducing the number of strands is normally ratioed to the draw weight of the bow, therefore on lower poundage bows, the 5 – 1 safety factor will remain or perhaps increase.
With the newer, smaller diameter materials like 452, the single strand breaking strength is under 100 lbs but many more strands are used so at least a 5 – 1 safety factor is maintained.
Basically, using the manufacturers recommended number of strands x the breaking strength of the string, will assure you have a string with much more than adequate strength and if you decide to drop a couple of strands to increase speed, the strength of the finished string will still way exceed the maximum poundage generated by the bow.
Breaking strengths is rarely, if ever, the cause of a string failure. More likely causes are –
· condition of cam wheels (burrs)
· over twisting
· extremely tight serving/compressive failure
· type of release
· lack of string care and maintenance (lubrication)
· abrasion
Question: How do I make a zebra string?
Answer: You can’t. It’s a patented product made by Mathews from a specially constructed material. You can make standard two color strings.
Question: What is the best center serving to use?
Answer: This is really a personal choice. Some archers still prefer the traditional monofilament because of the consistent diameter and the “sharp” way the nock leaves the serving. However, the durability of most monofilaments is limited and re-serving is frequently needed. Braided Spectra is extremely durable but has proven to be difficult to hold in place although our new Halo serving, when served tightly, grips quite well.
No. 62 braid, a blend of Spectra and polyester, grips well and has high durability. It should suit most archers. It is available in three diameters - .018, 021, and .025. Also offered is 62XS serving which is similar to regular 62 but with a higher % of Spectra for even better durability. Many finger shooters (compound, traditional and FITA) prefer our Halo, 100% braided Spectra material.
Question: What is the best end serving to use?
Answer: On traditional bows, No. 400 nylon is a good bet but for something more durable, our new Halo is quite popular.
For the ends on modern compound bows, twisted Spectra material is usually the best and known by the denomination No. 2. Look at our No. 2D. It is the smallest diameter end serving and fits comfortably into the cam/wheels without riding up on the side walls causing abrasion. Our black No. 2D has a slight adhesive coating which helps it stay together around the loops.
No. 62 braid and 62XS are also being used as an end serving material,usually in size .018". It is less prone to slippage and serving separation, however the archer must determine if durability is sufficient.
Question: How tight should serving material be applied?
Answer: Tight enough to hold the serving in place and stop it separating. That’s not very specific but what it means is that if you serve too tightly, there may be problems. In the center, you are crushing the bowstring material which can cause problems at a point where flexing occurs, and at the ends, if the serving is too tight, it “cracks” open when bent around the cam, especially if the bow is fitted with a radical cam. So experiment with serving materials which offer some adhesive coating for the ends such as our black No. 2D.
Question: What is the difference between Spectra and Dyneema?
Answer: Not very much. Both products are HMPE (high modulus polyethlene) materials. This product was originally developed by DSM in Europe and licensed to Allied Chemicals for production in the United States.
BCY introducted Dyneema to the archery market in 1995 with its DynaFLIGHT bowstring material which was made from SK65 Dyneema. In 1997, DSM began manufacturing SK75, a higher strength Dyneema with less creep, and BCY introduced this with DynaFLIGHT 97 bowstring material in 1997.
There are some slight differences in the two products, Spectra and Dyneema, which really do not effect the performance as an archery bowstring. These would be the number of filaments and the actual makeup of the yarn. In general, SK65 Dyneema is equal to Spectra 1000 and SK75 Dyneema equals Spectra 2000. Note that Spectra 2000 is not available in heavy deniers needed for making archery bowstring material.
The main benefits of Spectra and Dyneema over other fibers previously used in archery bowstrings are their extremely high strength and durability. The high strength results in very low creep.
Technical information about both products can be accessed through the Internet if you are looking for additional technical data.
Question: Does 452 fray?
Answer: All bowstring material will fray or fuzz if its not properly maintained, meaning regularly waxed, so I guess the question is - Does 452 fray more than other bowstring materials?
Early production of 452 bowstring material included fibers lubricated with silicone. It was found that the silicone would not blend with our standard bowstring wax applied during manufacturing. This caused 452 material to dry out quickly and a dry string will fuzz of fray.
The fibers are no longer lubricated with silicone. We now use a special lubricant which blends well with our current production wax. This means that the 452 stays well lubricated, therefore no longer will it fuzz or fray. All current productions of 452 will show no more fuzzing or fraying than any other bowstring material. 452 is now called 452X. Note also that the percentage of Vectran in 452X is approximetely 33%. The lower the Vectran content, the higher the durability, the faster the arrow speed, the longer the string life and the greater the safety.
Question: Do bowstrings provide the same performance on different bows?
Answer: No.
It is generally accepted that small diameter string materials of 100% Spectra or Dyneema, such as 8125, will shoot faster, but of course stability also has to be considered.
The width of the wheel tracks and design of the compound bows can make a difference. Some bows have very wide and friendly wheel tracks and speed tests have shown that blended materials such as 450 Plus are not much slower than 8125 on these bows.
On some compound bows, particularly those with narrow wheel tracks, the use of string material with a high percentage of Vectran has resulted in problems such as sudden catastrophic failures.
So, the answer is really that any opinions given by archers on string material relate directly to the bow they are using and it is wrong to assume that the results will be the same on other bows.
Question: What is the difference in strength between Dynaflight and 8125? I previously made my strings and cables out of Dynaflight. My strings were made with 16 strands and cables were 14 strands, now I have started to use 8125 in which I made a string consisting of 18 strands and am wondering if 14 strands for a cable would be strong enough because of the smaller diameter. Could you tell me which is faster and more durable, no.2d.016 end serving or no.2s.018 end serve?
Answer: Both Dynaflight 97 and 8125 are made from the highest quality Dyneema yarn. 97 with its larger diameter is about 23% stronger than 8125, so 18 strands of 8125 would give you similar strength to 16 of 97.
Both materials have excellent durability.
We recommend 18 strands of 8125, perhaps 20 in your cables.
8125 is the faster string material.
If you use too few strands, you are likely to get some "creep"; particularly on the high poundage bows at high temperatures.
Regarding end serving, our 2D and 2S have similar strength and durability. The 2D is popular because of its smaller diameter and 3 ply rounder construction; it seems to serve tighter.
Question: Bowstring material used to be made from Dacron, then from Fastflight. Now we see Dyneema, Spectra and HMPE. What are these materials and which one is best?
Answer: HMPE means "High Modulus Polyethylene". Spectra and Dyneema are both HMPE material. BCY uses mostly Dyneema for Bowstring material and Spectra for serving material. Products described as HMPE are made from either Spectra or Dyneema. Spectra and Dyneema are both very, very strong. Breakages are rare with either material. However, less creep (strech) will be experienced with SK75 Dyneema because it is stronger. Breakages can occur because from abrasion, rough spots at the ends of the bow, etc., but not because of fiber strength if the correct number os strands are used. Which is best? Bottom line.....our opinion.....it's Dyneema SK75, which is the strongest HMPE yarn available in suitable sizes for bowstring material. BCY uses either 100% SK75 Dyneema or a blend of SK75 Dyneema and Vectran in all bowstring materials.
Question: What is the best bowstring material for a modern Recurve bow ?
Answer: First it is essential to be sure that the bow is designed to shoot with the modern, high tenacity bowstring materials. Any doubt, use Dacron to avoid limb tip breakage. Which string material is best for recurves ? It's not an easy question. We know top recurve shooters are using our 8125, our 452X and our Dynaflight97; and by top shooters we mean people like Vic Wunderle, Butch Johnson, Ed Eliason, Simon Fairweather. So there's really not a clear recommendation but we see a preference for Dyneema which offers high strength and durability. Less strands can be used on lower poundage recurves, which helps arrow speed, particularly if the draw length is short.
Arrow Fletching – The ABC's
Reference Bohning( http://www.bohning.com/)
Arrow Fletching
Using Your Pro Class Fletching Jig: (Vanes or feathers)
Place the arrow in the jig with the nock installed. Place the vane in the clamp (do not add glue yet).
Place the clamp in the jig against the magnet so the vane makes contact with the arrow shaft. Sight down the shaft and check to ensure the vane is centered on the shaft. Be sure both ends of the vane seat well on the shaft. If not, adjust the clamp to the right or left to ensure the vane is positioned properly.
Note: Right wing vanes go from left to right and left wing vanes go from right to left. You are able to increase the offset to the right or left, by adjusting the front end of the magnet. Loosen knurled knob and adjust front of clamp either right or left to achieve desired offset. Make sure the vane base remains in full contact with the shaft. You must pay attention to the diameter of the shaft, because the smaller the diameter of the shaft the less offset you can apply to your fletch. The larger the diameter of the shaft the greater the offset you can apply to your vane. This also means that you must reset your jig when fletching different size arrows. Be sure you follow the instructions from above to ensure the vane makes contact with the shaft along the entire base of the fletch.
Place the vane into the clamp, ensure that you use the same index mark of the clamp with each vane. Apply an even bead of glue to the vane base. Quickly apply the clamp to the magnet on the jig and press firmly to the shaft. Let stand for 2 to 5 minutes. Squeeze the clamp open and remove from the magnet so that you can rotate the jig to the next vane position. Turn indexing knob until it snaps into next detent (3 vane configuration has 3 detents, 4 vane configuration has 4). Apply the remaining two vanes in the same manner. Remove the clamp after you have fletched your final vane and the glue has set. Remove your arrow from the jig and dot both ends of each vane with adhesive. This will allow you more vane support if your arrow completely penetrates the target.
Caution: Feathers will require you to set up your jig differently than vanes. Feathers have a base on one side only. Vanes have a base on two sides. Vanes are manufactured straight so they can be fletched either with a right or left angle. Feathers have a natural curve to them being right or left wing curve. You must use only right wing feathers to have a fletch angle to the right and left wing feathers to have a left wing angle. You cannot mix right and left wing feathers on the same shaft. Bohning Pro Class Fletching Jig clamps are available in either a natural right wing helical or a left wing helical. You can also choose a straight clamp that will allow you to fletch with a right or left offset angle without a helical.
Using ArroWraps
Clean the shaft in the same way as before fletching. However, to prep the shaft surface, prior to applying the wrap, you should first wipe arrow shaft with denatured alcohol. Remove wrap from backing. Place wrap on a flat surface, adhesive side up. Align shaft with long edge of wrap and roll with steady motion and pressure. You can then remove any oils from the surface of the wrap using Ivory bar soap. Fletch according to the instructions for the jig you are using.
Removing ArroWraps:
Option 1) Soak in hot tap water for approximately five minutes. Peel ArroWrap off. Option 2) Heat ArroWrap with hair dryer until soft. Peel ArroWrap off. Option 3) Scrape ArroWrap off using Bohning's new "Stripper" tool. Always clean and prep shaft after removing ArroWrap.
Fletching Wood Arrows (Pro Class Jig)
If you are dipping your arrows, now is the time to do so. See the Arrow Dipping Section. If you are not dipping your arrows then proceed to the installation of the nock.
To install the Bohning Classic nock, apply a small amount of glue, Fletch-Tite, to the tapered end of the shaft and rotate the nock to evenly disperse the glue. Allow the glue to set for 20 minutes.
Now you can place the arrow into the jig. Ensure that the index fletching, the odd color that you have selected is up first.
Place the vane/feather into the clamp and ensure that you are on the 4th index mark of the clamp. Apply an even bead of glue to the vane/feather base. We recommend that you use Bohning's Fletch-Tite cement for proper adhesion. Quickly apply the clamp to the magnet on the jig and press firmly to the shaft. Ensure that the vane/feather is in contact with the shaft. Let stand for about 5 to 7 minutes.
Squeeze the clamp open and remove from the magnet so that you can rotate the jig to the next vane position. Apply the remaining two vanes in the same manner as in step 4. Remove the clamp after you have fletched your final vane/feather and the glue has set.
Remove the arrow from the jig and dot both ends of the vane/feather with the Fletch-Tite cement. This will give your vane/feather more support if your arrow completely penetrates the target.
Fletching Aluminum Arrows
All aluminum arrows should be cleaned prior to fletching. SSR Arrow Shaft Surface Cleaner is the cleaner we recommend.
Place the arrow shaft in the SSR for no longer than 5 minutes and rinse thoroughly with hot running water. Let your shafts air dry. Do not wipe dry. If you have purchased shafts that have a uni-nock already inserted, you have to remove the nock at this time. The uni-nock will hold the cleaner in the shaft and inhibit the adhesion of your vanes.
If you are dipping your arrows, now is the time to do so. See Arrow Dipping Section. If you are not dipping your arrows, then you will proceed to the installation of the nock.
To install the Bohning "T" nock, apply a small amount of glue, Fletch-Tite, to the tapered tip of the arrow. Place the "T" nock over the tapered portion of the shaft and rotate the nock to evenly disperse the glue. Allow the glue to set for 20 minutes. If you are using shafts equipped with uni-bushing, this is the time to press in Bohning's Signature Nock.
Now you can place the arrow in the jig. Ensure that the index fletching, the odd color vane your have selected is first up.
Place the vane into the clamp and ensure that you are on the 4th index mark of the clamp. Apply an even bead of glue to the vane base. We recommend that you use Bohning's Fletch-Tite Platinum™ cement for best adhesion. Quickly apply the clamp to the magnet on the jig and press firmly to the shaft. Let stand for 2 to 5 minutes.
Squeeze the clamp open and remove from the magnet so that you can rotate the jig to the next vane position. Apply the remaining two vanes in the same manner as in step 6. Remove the clamp after you have fletched your final vane and the glue has set.
Remove your arrow from the jig and dot both ends of the vane with Fletch-Tite cement. This will allow you more vane support if your arrow completely penetrates the target.
Fletching Carbon Arrows
All carbon arrows should be cleaned prior to fletching. SSR Arrow Shaft Surface Cleaner is the cleaner we recommend. Sometimes it is necessary to sand your carbon shafts with Scotch-Brite scrub pads. This ruffs the surface up for better adhesion. Remember to limit this to just 4 or 5 inches where your fletching will attached to the shaft.
Place your arrow shaft in SSR for no longer than 5 minutes and rinse thoroughly with hot running water. Let your shafts air dry. Do not wipe dry. Make sure that if you have purchased shafts that have uni-nocks already inserted, you remove the nock at this time. The uni-nock will hold the cleaner in the shaft and inhibit the adhesion of your vanes.
If you are dipping your arrows, now is the time to do so. See Arrow Dipping Section. If you are not dipping your arrows then you will proceed to the installation of the nock.
Most of the newer wrapped carbon shafts use push-in nocks. Never use air-dry glues, such as Fletch-Tite Platinum or Fletch-Tite to install these nocks because they will deteriorate the plastic that the nock is made of. It may be necessary to use Bohning's Quantum-XT if your nock is loose in the shaft. This would be an excellent time to press in Bohning's Signature or Blazer Nocks.
Now you can place the arrow in the jig. Ensure that the index fletching, the odd color vane you have selected is up first.
Place the vane into the clamp and ensure that you are on the 4th mark of the clamp. Apply an even bead of glue to the vane base. We recommend that you use Bohning's Fletch-Tite Platinum™ cement for proper adhesion. Quickly apply the clamp to the magnet on the jig and press firmly to the shaft. Ensure that the vane is in contact with the shaft. Let stand for 2 to 5 minutes.
Squeeze the clamp open and remove from the magnet so that you can rotate the jig to the next position. Apply the remaining vanes in the same manner as in step 6. Remove the clamp after you have fletched your final vane and allow the glue to set.
Remove the arrow from the jig and dot both ends of the vane with the Fletch-Tite Platinum™ cement. This will give you more vane support if your arrow completely penetrates the target.
